![]() This assembly is a perfect match for the wire spec at 22 gauge. That would be fine for a fan but I elected not to try it on the capacitive sensor. The assembly with the female end, which I hoped to be a direct replacement, was too light gauge on the wire, 26 gauge. My hope was that I would save myself the hassle of stripping, tinning etc. I decided to try two cable assemblies, one pre-assembled with the same female and and the other, the mate. My first attempt lasted under 15 seconds, the second and third ones went on fine. Unless you are very good at crimping, I suggest getting a strip of ten. These are used in all 4 positions at the back of the print head, I picked up a few as I have two UM3s and suspect I am not done fixing them. The two pin female connector is a JST part, available here: The cost of everything was swamped by the $8.00 shipping fee so I ordered spares for DIY wastage. I found everything I needed on digikey (Canada, but I think this is mutinational). One look at the connector and the crimp-on fittings and I decided the risk of a bad connection and frying a PCB was not worth it. The next choice was whether to try and re-use any part of the existing cable. ![]() Felix was able to fill in the electrical characteristics once we realized there wasn't going to be stock for a while, so I realised I could go a bit long (under a cm) and relieve some strain on the connector ends. Protecting the connectors on the capacitve board takes a good magnifying glass and fine tweezers. Erin was able to explain that it measures heat from the bed and give me an idea of what the risks were around the connection. I had never had to work around the capacitive sensor before and did not know which parts were critical. I looked around my pile of salvaged parts and found a number of close fits. Still, not all was lost, I was able to narrow down the wire to TR64 UL style 1007, 300V, 90C (more on this in a minute). The bad news, right now the part is not in stock locally and transborder mail is deadly slow. Depending on the of the print head, I would wager it's a question of when, not if, so I will be planning on having one in my troubleshooting supplies. Shout out to Erin at frbc8, and Ken and Felix at Shop3D.ca!įirst, the good news - the official part, 2014 is not expensive. JST Connector Types: Wire-To-Board Connection GH (1.Just an update: Back in business. ![]() There are numerous types based on crimp style, such as a wire to wire, wire to board, and so on. It is essential to keep in mind that each connector family has different current, voltage, and wire size ratings. You will need the full specification if you’re trying to find a particular replacement part for your project. What are the various JST connector types? ![]() For information on the crimping tool required for that particular family, check the JST Connector crimping.ģ.Use copper-stranded wires which has been annealed and tin-plated when crimping connections between JST connectors.To help ensure that your connection works perfectly, JST also advises that you have roughly 15 degrees of freedom of movement on each axis from the connector directly out along the cables.Constant straining on the crimped wires can lead to loose connections. To prevent overstretching your connector or crimp while attaching components to the board, have a little extra cable on hand.To avoid damaging your connector or using it incorrectly when working with JST connectors, experts advise following these tips: This company’s guiding principle is to give you the most reliable, cutting-edge, and cost-effective items possible. The JST Group has a worldwide presence of manufacturing plants, R&D hubs, and service locations. Since then, JST has maintained its position as one of the top ten connection manufacturing companies worldwide, with annual sales of about $100.0 billion due to its recognition for innovation and excellence.
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